Witbier: The Belgian White

Witbier (literally “white beer”) is a traditional Belgian wheat beer that is as refreshing as it is complex. Unlike German wheat beers (Hefeweizen), which rely on yeast for flavor, Witbier is defined by its unique blend of spices and the use of unmalted wheat.

A Brief History: The Resurrection

Witbier has roots dating back nearly 400 years to the farmhouses of Flanders, but its modern history is a cinematic story of loss and rebirth.

The Death of a Style

By the 1950s, the style was dead. The rise of clear, mass-market Pilsners had driven the cloudy, spiced wheat beers out of fashion. In 1957, the last brewery in the town of Hoegaarden, Tomsin, closed its doors.

The Milkman Savior

Enter Pierre Celis. A local milkman who had helped out at the Tomsin brewery in his youth, he couldn’t bear to see the tradition die. In 1966, using his life savings, he bought some equipment and started brewing “Oud Hoegaards” in his garden shed. It was a hit.

The Texas Twist

The beer grew too popular. After a fire destroyed his brewery in 1985, Celis was forced to sell a majority stake to Interbrew (now AB InBev) to rebuild. They started changing the recipe to make it “mass market.” Heartbroken, Celis sold his remaining shares, moved to Austin, Texas, and opened Celis Brewery, introducing Witbier to the American craft beer scene. He is the godfather of the style.

The Science of Cloudiness: Unmalted Wheat

Why is it called “White” beer?

The Grain Bill: Witbier uses about 50% unmalted (raw) wheat.
The Haze: Because the wheat is raw, it is packed with high-molecular-weight proteins and starches that haven’t been broken down by the malting process. These stay suspended in the beer, scattering light and giving it a pale, milky-white appearance.
The Texture: These proteins also give the beer a silky, creamy mouthfeel that coats the tongue, contrasting beautifully with the high carbonation.

The Spice Route: Coriander and Curaçao

While German brewers were restricted by the Purity Law (Reinheitsgebot), Belgians had no such rules.

Curaçao Orange Peel: Belgium was a colonial power. They imported bitter oranges from the island of Curaçao. The peel is dried, providing a herbal, citrusy bitterness that is very different from fresh sweet orange.
Coriander: The seeds of the cilantro plant add a floral, lemony, and slightly peppery note.
The Secret: Some brewers add grains of paradise, chamomile, or cumin, but they will never tell you!

Witbier vs. Hefeweizen: The Wheat Battle

These two styles are often confused, but they are very different animals.

Feature	Belgian Witbier	German Hefeweizen
Wheat Type	Unmalted (Raw)	Malted
Spices	Yes (Orange/Coriander)	No (Banned by Purity Law)
Yeast Flavor	Subtle spice/fruit	Intense Banana & Clove
Acidity	Slight Lactic Tartness	None
Mouthfeel	Creamy & Dry	Fluffy & Full

The Pouring Ritual: Roll the Bottle

Witbier is bottle conditioned, meaning there is live yeast in the bottle.

Pour: Pour two-thirds of the beer into the glass.
Roll: Vigorously swirl or roll the bottle in your hand to loosen the yeast sediment from the bottom.
Top Up: Pour the remaining yeast-rich liquid into the glass. The beer should turn from gold to milky white. That yeast adds flavor and Vitamin B!

Sensory Profile

Appearance: Very pale straw to light gold. It is characteristically cloudy (milky). It features a dense, white, moussy head that lasts forever.
Aroma: Moderate sweetness with a herbal/spicy kick from the coriander and a bright, citrusy note from the orange peel.
Flavor: A pleasant graininess from the wheat, balanced by the spices. The bitterness is very low, and the finish is crisp and slightly tart.
Mouthfeel: Medium-light body with high carbonation. Despite its lightness, the raw wheat gives it a surprising creaminess.

Serving and Glassware

Temperature: Best served cold, between 3–7°C (37–45°F).
Glassware:
- Hexagonal Tumbler: The traditional heavy glass associated with Hoegaarden. The thick glass keeps it cold.
- Tulip Glass: Excellent for capturing the delicate spicy aromas.

Homebrewing Witbier: The “Turbid Mash”

If you are a homebrewer, Witbier presents a unique challenge: How to keep the proteins in suspension?

The Flaked Wheat: Most homebrewers use “Flaked Wheat” (like rolled oats) which has been pre-gelatinized. This is the easy way.
The Rice Hulls: Because raw wheat has no husk, the mash gets incredibly sticky. You must add rice hulls to prevent a “stuck sparge.”
The Spice Balance: Less is more. Use fresh coriander seeds and crack them gently. If you use too much, your beer will taste like ham or celery.

Witbier’s bright acidity and spicy notes make it a “culinary chameleon.”

Starter: Moules Frites (Mussels & Fries)
- Pairing: The national dish of Belgium. The citrus notes in the beer act like a squeeze of lemon on the shellfish.
Salad: Goat Cheese & Walnut Salad
- Pairing: The herbal coriander notes bridge the gap to the walnuts and greens, while the carbonation scrubs the creamy cheese.
Main: Thai Green Curry
- Pairing: Witbier is fantastic with spice. The low bitterness ensures the heat isn’t amplified, while the citrus/coriander mirrors the lemongrass and lime in the curry.
Dessert: Lemon Sorbet
- Pairing: A refreshing, palate-cleansing finish where the beer and dessert share the same citrus DNA.

Famous Commercial Examples

Hoegaarden White: The original. Still the benchmark for the style, even if it is now mass-produced.
Allagash White: The American standard. Widely considered one of the best beers brewed in the USA. It is slightly more spiced than Hoegaarden.
Blue Moon: The “gateway” beer. Technically a “Belgian-Style Wheat Ale” brewed by Coors. It is sweeter and often served with an orange slice (which traditionalists frown upon, but drinkers love).
St. Bernardus Wit: A fantastic, authentic version brewed by the monks’ neighbors.

Conclusion

Witbier is the ultimate summer beer. It’s light enough for a hot day but complex enough to keep your palate interested with every sip. It is a testament to Pierre Celis and the idea that one man can save a history.