Ancient Flavors, Modern Craft: A Guide to Brewing with Heritage Grains
Ancient Flavors, Modern Craft: A Guide to Brewing with Heritage Grains
In the modern brewing industry, we are largely dependent on highly specialized, commercially “optimized” grains. Modern 2-Row and 6-Row Barley have been bred for over a century to provide maximum extract, low protein, and high enzymatic power. They are the efficient, reliable engines of the global beer industry.
But for the authority-level brewer, efficiency is not the only metric of success. There is a growing movement toward the “old ways”—the use of Heritage Grains (also known as Ancient Grains) that predates the industrialization of agriculture. Grains like Spelt, Einkorn, and Emmer were the staples of European brewing for thousands of years before they were sidelined by modern bread wheat and barley.
In this guide, we will explore the history, the molecular composition, and the technical application of these ancient grains. By incorporating heritage grains into your recipes, you aren’t just brewing a beer; you are reviving a piece of human history and unlocking flavor profiles that modern grains simply cannot replicate.
1. The Trinity of Ancient Grains
While there are dozens of heritage varieties, three grains stand out as the most relevant and historically significant for brewers.
Einkorn (Triticum monococcum)
Einkorn is the “mother” of all wheat. It was one of the first crops ever domesticated by humans in the Fertile Crescent over 10,000 years ago.
- The Flavor: It is known for its intense “nutty” and “spiced” character. It has a much deeper golden hue than modern wheat.
- The Technicals: Einkorn is very high in protein and lipids (fats). It lacks the D-genome found in modern wheat, making it easier to digest for some but more difficult to mash. It produces a rich, creamy head and a distinctive “rustic” haze.
Emmer (Triticum turgidum)
Emmer (also known as Farro in Italy) was the primary grain of Ancient Egypt and the Roman Empire. It is the ancestor of Durum wheat.
- The Flavor: Emmer is much more “savory” than modern wheat. It has a dark, earthy sweetness reminiscent of pumpernickel bread.
- The Technicals: Like most heritage grains, Emmer has a very tough outer husk (if not pearled), which can actually help with lautering (the separation of liquid from the grain). It provides a firm, sturdy mouthfeel that stands up well to dark malts.
Spelt (Triticum spelta)
Spelt is perhaps the most famous “alternative” grain in modern brewing. It was widely used in medieval Germany and is a key component of traditional Dinkelbier.
- The Flavor: Spelt is crisp and slightly acidic. It has a “bark-like” or “woody” dryness that is perfect for balancing sweet, malty ales.
- The Technicals: Spelt has a high protein content but lower gluten strength than modern wheat. It creates a very stable foam and provides a “glassy” clarity if handled correctly in the mash.
2. The Molecular Difference: Why They Matter
Why go through the trouble of sourcing and mashing these grains? The answer lies in their protein-to-starch ratio.
High Protein = Better Body
Modern barley has been bred to have low protein (usually 9–11%) so it doesn’t cause haze in clear lagers. Heritage grains often have protein levels of 14–18%. These proteins provide the “structural integrity” of the beer. They create a mouthfeel that feels “firm” and “voluminous” without being cloying or overly sweet.
Carotenoids and Color
Heritage grains are significantly higher in Carotenoids (the pigments found in carrots). This is why heritage beers often have a vibrant, saturated orange or deep gold color that looks “alive” compared to the pale straw color of modern industrial pilsners.
3. Technical Challenges: Mashing the Ancients
Heritage grains are not a “drop-in” replacement for standard malt. They require a different technical approach in the brewhouse.
Problem 1: The “Sticky” Mash
Because of their high protein and beta-glucan content, heritage grains can turn your mash tuner into a container of superglue. If you use more than 20% heritage grains in your grist, you are at risk of a “stuck sparge.”
- The Solution: You must use a Beta-Glucan Rest. Start your mash at 45°C (113°F) for 15-20 minutes. This gives the enzymes (Beta-Glucanase) time to break down the “gooey” sugars before you raise the temperature to the saccharification range.
Problem 2: Lower Enzymatic Power
Most heritage grains are sold “raw” or “flaked,” meaning they have no enzymes of their own. Even if you find malted versions, their Diastatic Power (DP) is often much lower than modern 2-row.
- The Solution: Always pair heritage grains with a high-DP base malt like North American 2-row or a “Distillers Malt” to ensure you have enough enzymatic “horsepower” to convert all that ancient starch into fermentable sugar.
4. Style Guide: Where to Use Heritage Grains
To be an authority, you need to know which styles are elevated by these grains.
The Modern Farmhouse Ale (Saison)
Saisons were historically brewed with whatever was in the farmer’s barn. Replacing 30% of your pilsner malt with a mix of Einkorn and Spelt will instantly transform a “clean” Saison into a complex, rustic “bière de terroir” with authentic peppery and floral notes.
The “New World” Pilsner
Try a Pilsner with 10% Emmer. The earthy sweetness of the Emmer provides a beautiful platform for modern, fruity hops like Nelson Sauvin or Motueka.
The Historic Dinkelbier
Brew a 100% Spelt beer (malted spelt). It is a technical feat that requires multiple mash steps and a slow, patient sparge, but the result is a unique, nutty, and highly effervescent ale that tastes like nothing else in the world.
5. Sourcing Authority-Level Grains
You won’t find high-quality heritage grains at a standard grocery store. To get the best results, you need to look for stone-milled or whole-berry grains from local organic farms.
- Raw vs. Malted: Malted heritage grains (available from specialty maltsters like Weyermann) are easier to use. However, using Raw grains that have been boiled (gelatinized) before being added to the mash provides more of the specific “raw grain” flavor and protein haze prized in historic brewing.
4. Molecular Breakdown: Ancient Gluten and Digestion
One of the most frequent questions regarding heritage grains is their relationship to gluten sensitivity. While none of these grains are gluten-free, their gluten structure is fundamentally different from modern common wheat (Triticum aestivum).
The D-Genome vs. The A-Genome:
Modern wheat is a hexaploid (six sets of chromosomes), including the D-genome, which is responsible for the elastic, strong gluten favored by industrial bakers.
- Einkorn: Is a diploid (two sets of chromosomes) and lacks the D-genome entirely.
- Emmer/Spelt: Are tetraploid/hexaploid but have a much higher ratio of Gliadin to Glutenin.
The Brewing Impact: Because the gluten is “weaker,” heritage grains do not provide the same structural strength to a dough, but they provide a much higher level of soluble protein to a wort. This leads to a denser, more “liquid bread” sensation that is highly prized in traditional farmhouse styles.
5. The Role of Phenolic Acids
Heritage grains are biological treasure troves of antioxidant compounds, specifically Ferulic Acid and Vanillic Acid.
Ferulic Acid and “Pozen”:
In German wheat beer brewing, ferulic acid is the precursor to 4-vinyl guaiacol (4VG), the molecule responsible for the signature “clove” aroma. Heritage grains, specifically Spelt and Einkorn, contain up to 30% more ferulic acid than modern wheat.
- Authority Tip: By performng a Ferulic Acid Rest at 45°C (113°F), you can maximize the release of these precursors, resulting in a beer with an incredibly deep, complex spicy profile that modern grains simply cannot match.
6. Ancient Grains Style Table: Beyond the Norm
| Grain | Historic Style | Modern Application | Flavor Contribution |
|---|---|---|---|
| Einkorn | Ancient Sumerian Ales | Hazy IPA / Witbier | Honey, floral, spice |
| Emmer | Egyptian “Heqet” | Robust Porter / Stout | Cocoa, tobacco, earth |
| Spelt | Medieval Dinkelbier | Saison / Grisette | Walnut, crisp acidity |
| Khorasan | Egyptian Wheat Beer | Golden Ale | Sweet, buttery, rich |
7. Heritage Brewing FAQ
Q: Do I need to mill heritage grains differently? A: Yes. Einkorn kernels are significantly smaller than barley or modern wheat. If you use a standard mill gap (e.g., 0.035”), many Einkorn berries will pass through uncracked. Narrow your gap to 0.025” for heritage grains to ensure proper extract efficiency.
Q: Can I use “Spelt Flour” instead of kernels? A: You can, but it is dangerous. Flour in the mash tun is a recipe for a “stuck mash.” If you must use flour, you should mix it with an equal volume of rice hulls to provide drainage channels.
Q: How do these grains affect shelf life? A: Because of their high antioxidant (phenolic) content, heritage grains can actually help protect beer from oxidation. They act as natural “scavengers” for the oxygen radicals we discussed in our Cold Side Oxidation guide.
8. Summary Checklist: Brewing the Past
| Grain | Best Style | Key Benefit | Technical Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Einkorn | Hazy IPA / Witbier | Nutty flavor, deep color | Rice hulls are mandatory |
| Emmer | Stout / Amber Lager | Earthy sweetness, body | Use a protein rest |
| Spelt | Saison / Dinkelbier | Crispness, foam stability | Watch for lower extract % |
Conclusion: The Future is in the Past
As we move further into the era of industrial optimization, there is a profound beauty in stepping back. By brewing with Einkorn, Emmer, and Spelt, you are connecting your brewery to the very roots of civilization.
True authority in brewing is about more than just mastering the latest technology; it is about understanding the heritage of our ingredients. The next time you design a recipe, look beyond the standard malts. Reach back into history, grab a handful of ancient grain, and brew something that has more than just flavor—brew something with a soul.
The ancients knew what they were doing. It’s time we listened.