California Common: The Steam Beer Legacy

In the mid-19th century, during the chaos of the California Gold Rush, German immigrant brewers arrived in San Francisco with a problem. They had the recipes for their beloved lagers, but they lacked the one thing a lager absolutely requires: Ice.

San Francisco’s climate was temperate, but not cold enough for traditional lagering. Without refrigeration or mountain ice, these brewers were forced to innovate. They adapted their lager yeast to ferment at higher temperatures in shallow, open vats, relying on the cool Pacific breeze to keep the fermentation from spinning out of control.

The result was Steam Beer—now known by the BJCP as the California Common.

It is the only beer style that is truly native to the United States. To brew one with authority is to understand the interplay between “Toasty” malts and “Woody” hops, and to master the technical challenge of keeping a lager yeast clean at 18°C.

1. Why “Steam”? The Origin of the Name

There are three main theories as to why this beer was called “Steam”:

Carbonation: Because the beer was highly carbonated and served young, the kegs would “hiss” like a steam engine when tapped.
The Vats: Historically, the boiling wort was cooled on the roof of the brewery. In San Francisco’s damp air, the rising vapor looked like a blanket of steam.
The Pressure: “Steam” was a 19th-century slang term for any beer under high pressure.

Regardless of the name, the style became the staple of the West Coast until the late 20th century, when Anchor Brewing (led by Fritz Maytag) saved it from extinction.

2. Technical Profile: BJCP 2021 Standards (Category 19B)

The California Common is a “malty, but dry, hop-centered, amber-colored beer.”

Parameter	Targeted Range
Original Gravity (OG)	1.048 – 1.054
Final Gravity (FG)	1.011 – 1.014
ABV	4.5% – 5.5%
Bitterness (IBU)	30 – 45
Color (SRM)	10 – 14

Sensory Breakdown

Aroma: Moderate to high “Rustic” hop aroma (woody, minty, or herbal). Toasted or bready malt notes. No “Caramel” overload and no “Fruitiness.”
Flavor: A bold, “Grainy” start followed by a firm, lingering bitterness. The finish is very dry. It should feel “Bracing.”
Mouthfeel: Medium body with high carbonation.

3. The Hop Star: Northern Brewer

You cannot brew an authoritative California Common without Northern Brewer hops.

The Character: Northern Brewer provides a unique “Woody,” “Earth,” and “Minty” profile that is the hallmark of the style. Most other varieties (like Cascade or Citra) are too “Modern” and “Fruity.”
The Dosage: Unlike many IPAs, California Common relies on a large late-kettle addition (15 minutes to flameout) to provide that iconic “West Coast Forest” aroma.

4. The Technical Heart: Warm Lager Fermentation

This is the most critical part of the authority process. You are asking a lager yeast to act like an ale yeast.

Yeast Selection

Use Wyeast 2112 (California Lager) or WLP810. These particular strains were isolated from the Anchor brewery and have been “trained” over decades to ferment cleanly at higher temperatures.

Temperature Management

Pitching: Pitch at 15°C (59°F).
Incubation: Let the temp rise to 17°C - 18°C (62°F - 65°F) and hold it steady.
The Risk: If you let the temp hit 21°C, the yeast will produce excessive esters (fruitiness) and higher alcohols, turning the beer into a “Poor Man’s Pale Ale.” You want the clean profile of a lager, just with a slightly more “Robust” character.

5. The Malt Bill: Toasted, Not Burnt

The color of a California Common should be a brilliant, clear copper.

Base: 2-row Brewers malt.
Specialty: Use Crystal 60L (5-10%) for the amber color and a touch of sweetness.
The Secret: Add 2-5% Victory or Amber Malt. This provides the “Toasted Bread” and “Biscuit” notes that balance the woody Northern Brewer hops.

6. Technical Case Study: Steam vs. Pale Ale

Why isn’t this just an Amber Ale?

The Difference: An Amber Ale uses ale yeast (S. cerevisiae), which produces fruity esters. California Common uses lager yeast (S. pastorianus), which—even when warm—is far more neutral.
The Finish: Lager yeast is better at consuming certain complex sugars, leading to a “Drier” finish than most American Amber Ales. This dryness is what makes the California Common so refreshing.

7. Food Pairing: The San Francisco Wharf

Appetizer: Sourdough Bread with Salted Butter
- The “Toasted” notes in the beer find a perfect mirror in the bread’s crust.
Main: Clam Chowder (in a bread bowl)
- The bitter finish of the beer “Cuts” through the creaminess of the chowder, resetting your palate for the next spoonful.
Contrast Pairing: Sharp Cheddar Cheese
- The “Woody” bitterness of the Northern Brewer hops complements the “Tang” of a 2-year aged cheddar.

8. Style FAQ: Professional Insight

Q: Can I call my beer “Steam Beer”? A: No. “Steam Beer” is a trademark owned by Anchor Brewing Company. If you are a commercial brewer, you must call it “California Common.”

Q: Is it okay if the beer has a slight “Sulfur” note? A: A tiny hint of sulfur is acceptable given the lager yeast, but it should mostly dissipate during the conditioning phase. If it smells like rotten eggs, your fermentation was too stressed.

Q: Why did Anchor Brewing close? A: Anchor (the pioneer of the style) recently closed its doors after 127 years, though there are efforts to revive it. This makes the California Common a “Heritage Style” that craft brewers now have a responsibility to preserve.

Conclusion

The California Common is the soul of San Francisco in a bottle. It is a beer of necessity—a testament to how brewers have always adapted to their environment to create something beautiful.

By mastering the warm lager fermentation and the rustic profile of Northern Brewer hops, you are participating in the oldest craft beer tradition in America. It is a dry, toasted, and woody experience that rewards the technical brewer with a pint that is as historic as it is delicious.

Next time you are by the Pacific, or just in your brewery, raise a glass to the “Steam.”